Tata e Lilila in english

sábado, 2 de setembro de 2017

Places to go near Rio de Janeiro

We are Tata and Lilila, but you can call us T&L.

We're an elderly couple who have lived in Rio de Janeiro all our lives! So, we know "something" around here 😊😊😊😊😊

Now, we're no professional tourist guides! We'll talk to you about Rio de Janeiro city and some other cool places around as if we were talking to friends.

We'll give tips and suggestions. In case you have doubts or other queries, just get in touch. If we can, we'll help.

We won't give many suggestions for places to eat or drink, as these are not our expertise. In fact, we prefer outdoors activities and these will be most of our tips.

Hope you have fun!

It may be a little confusing to find things in this blog, so here below is a map to help you:

Month	Subject
Julho (July)	General tips about Rio, cariocas and how to go around
Agosto (August)	Places to go in the capital city (Rio de Janeiro)
Setembro (September)	Places to go nearby (in Rio de Janeiro state)

Places nearby

(In Rio de Janeiro state)

1) Petrópolis : It's one of the cities on the hillside of Rio de Janeiro State. It's located only 68 kilometres (42 mi) northeast of Rio de Janeiro.The town's name ("city of Peter") honors Pedro II, the last Emperor of Brazil, who is entombed there at the Cathedral of Saint Peter of Alcantara. The city was the summer residence of the Brazilian Emperors and aristocrats in the 19th century.

Therefore, there are palaces and other places of historical interest. Brewery Itaipava is another cool place to visit ( there are guided tours).

The weather there is much milder than it is in Rio, specially in summertime.

If you like trekking, Correias is the place where you get to "PARNASO" (Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos) with trails and waterfalls.

We'll be talking about some of the best places there:

Quitandinha - The Palácio Quitandinha is a historic former luxury resort hotel in Petrópolis, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The former hotel rooms are currently privately owned condominiums, while the hotel's lavish public areas, considered among the masterpieces of famed American designer Dorothy Draper, have been recently restored.When it was opened as the "Cassino Hotel Quitandinha", the Palácio Quitandinha was the largest hotel casino in Latin America. (Gambling had been permitted in Brazil since 1930, but it was outlawed on May 30, 1946 ). So, it's really worth a visit!

The façade of the former cassino

The luxury inside

2) Paraty and Trindade beach;

Paraty is a Historical town about 4 hours distant from Rio. To get there you'll have to take a bus at the bus terminal (Rodoviária Novo Rio). But the bus gets you straight there and although it's a small city there's plenty of structure to receive foreign people. Three or four days will be enough.

You'll walk down streets from the Colonial period. There are lots of boat trips which you MUST take and waterfalls to visit. A number of agencies can take you there and for most places we advise you to hire agents. Night life is interesting with restaurants and live music. (all of them walking distance).

We think it's a good idea to book a lodge before you go, as there are so many!

We usually stay at "Valhacouto" (which means "pirates' den").It's not so cheap, but it's conveniently situated near the historical center.

Historical buildings

Pedra Branca ("White stone") waterfall (near city)

As to Trindade beach, it's easy to go! Just get a bus at Paraty bus station. It takes about an hour to get there.

There are lots of interesting beaches there, (one specially for people who like surfing).

We strongly suggest Cachadaço beach (or pool, as they say)

If you're staying in Paraty you can go and come back on the same day.

Diving at "Cachadaço" pool

3) Ilha Grande (Big Island)

As the name says, it's an island in Angra dos Reis Bay, near Rio de Janeiro. So, of course, you must take a boat to get there.

But not in Rio. First you have to take a bus from Rio to Angra dos Reis at the terminal (Rodoviária Novo Rio). After about 2 hours, you'll get to a place called "Conceição do Jacareí". (difficult to pronounce but easy to find, for many people get off there. The bus driver usually helps).

In Conceição you get the boat. There are different prices, so try not to get the first one that is offered 'cause it's usually more expensive. (when you get off the bus, cross the road and follow the rest of the people, They'll take you to the dock. The boat will take you to Abraão Village, a kind of "capital" of the island.

In Ilha Grande you can take boat rides and walk trails. Signs are written in English,too.

We suggest trails to: Lopes Mendes beach (about 2 and a half hours to go and the same to get back; Feiticeira waterfall (about 2 hours); Two rivers beach (my favorite) about 2 and a half hours to get there; Saco do Céu (Sky bag) about 4 hours to go and 4 more to be back. But there are other beautiful places nearby.

There's plenty of structure because they're used to receiving foreigners. Again, it's good to take a look at the lodgings available before you go.

We like to stay at "Porto Abraão" (near the dock).

On the way to "Saco do Céu"

Cataguás beach (you get there by boat)

Our video at Ilha Grande: https://youtu.be/jnRZkANRyAM

4) Paquetá Island:

It's much nearer than the one above, although not so "glamorous".

In fact, Paquetá is not another town, it's a far away neighbourhood in Rio. But it is very different from the capital city. It's a calm place, there are no cars there (except for emergencies) and the old houses tell an important part of the History of Rio de Janeiro

Tips:

One of the best things to do there is riding a bike. You can rent one for a cheap price in the street in front of the pier.
Of course you have to take a ferry to get there. This one departs from Praça XV, downtown Rio. It's not expensive and will take about 50 minutes on weekdays and 1 hour on weekends (the ferry is faster on weekdays)
There are places there I don't think you should miss: Parque Darke de Matos (the best view of the island), Centro Cultural, Moreninha beach...
"Moreninha" is a character from a book, who lived in the island, and her "house" is still there...
Other important - and real - people related to politics have lived there too. Their houses have signs telling the history.
Although it's a charming place,there isn't much to do there in fact. So you can do all I have suggested in one day only. But in case you want to spend the night, I suggest Acordes ao Luar Inn. (it's near the pier) Nearby there's a nice restaurant called Regina's. A good place to eat!

Our video can be found at: https://youtu.be/_a3T6V1eLDA

(it's not been subtitled yet but can be of help)

Some pictures:

beautiful and calm sunset...

riding bikes around

A cool place to rent a bike (they have unusual ones, too)

A bedroom in "Acordes ao Luar" Inn

"Centro Cultural"

quarta-feira, 9 de agosto de 2017

Cool places to go in Rio de Janeiro!

Hope you have fun!

It may be a little confusing to find things in this blog, so here below is a map to help you:

Month	Subject
Julho (July)	General tips about Rio, cariocas and how to go around
Agosto (August)	Places to go in the capital city (Rio de Janeiro)
Setembro (September)	Places to go nearby (in Rio de Janeiro state)

So, let's start with some suggestions:

Places in Rio de Janeiro

1) One of the most famous all over the world: Tijuca Forest (Floresta da Tijuca)

Tijuca Forest is really a section of a National Park called "Tijuca National park" (PNT)

http://www.parquedatijuca.com.br/

There you can go trekking, although even the highest peaks are not so hard to go, in case you're used to going trekking. There are some waterfalls too, but they're usually small.

How to get there? two ways, mainly: you can get into contact with an agency and ride their cars which take you there (the easiest way, but not so adventurous); or you can go on your own.

In the second case, get the subway to go to a place called "Saens Pena square". There you get a bus called 333 (Rodoviaria - Barra da Tijuca). You have to get off at Tijuca Forest (it's easy, the driver usually helps and there'll be other people getting there too).

When you get there, you start walking from the very beginning, because the "visitors' center" (centro de visitantes) is not at the entrance of the Forest. But it's easy to get information on how to get there.
Nowadays we suggest you go on a weekend.

The visitors' center (If you go on foot, it takes you about half an hour to get there from the gate)

Here are some examples of places to go which are not so difficult:

Cachoeira das almas

Easy to go. From "Centro de Visitantes" It takes about 30 minutes walking.

Mirante da Cascatinha

Mirante da Cascatinha is an Observation Deck. There you have a view of the most famous waterfall in the Forest: "cascatinha". And you can see the peaks,too (as the photo shows). Easy to go, it takes about 40 minutes from the visitors'center.

Here's the link to our film: SUBTITLED - https://youtu.be/ZzsuMJlFBnM

- Tijuca Peak, in Tijuca Forest:

It's the highest peak in the forest! Easy to go, although a bit tiring for people who are not used to go trekking. If you get an agency to take you to the forest, they probably won't take you there (you'll only go sightseeing a bit around) so we'll give you tips on how to go on your own:

If you're staying in Zona Sul, take the subway to "Praça Saens Pena", in Tijuca. There you catch a bus number 301 or 302 (to Barra da Tijuca).
Get off at Praça Afonso Viseu (or just look around and notice the people who look like they're going trekking too and follow them). This square is at the top of the road (it's a winding road which goes up, but very beautiful).
The entance of the Forest is there. Just go up by the asphalt road until you get to a square called "Bom Retiro" (it's far! it will take you about 2 hours to get there, just follow the signs.)
On the way, you'll pass by "Visitors Center". It's useful to stop there for a while. There you have water, toilets and information.
When you get to "Bom Retiro" the trails to the main peaks start. Just follow the signs. It'll take you about 1 hour more to get to the peak.
Don't forget: there are no snack bars in the forest, so you should take water and food.

If you want more information, take a look at this video (SUBTITLED):

https://youtu.be/6ZFngvCD2bQ

2) The Forts:

Among the options, we suggest Copacabana Fort and Leme Fort

Perhaps easier places for a tourist, for they're both in "Zona Sul" (South Zone) at the beaches that name them.

You have to buy a ticket but not expensive. The views are wonderful. Copacabana Fort is more sophisticated in terms of places to eat and you don't have to go up very much to appreciate the view. Leme Fort is for the ones who like walking, because you'll have to go up a hill. There are no restaurants.

Both Forts have permanent expositions related to the Army.

Copacabana Fort

Leme Fort (Duque de Caxias Fort)

link to our video (not subtitled yet) - https://youtu.be/AobVOyMHyFY

3) Two other cool suggestions: Trips around Guanabara Bay by boat.

There are two very good ones, which are a mixture of History, Geography and beautiful landscapes. Both of them start at "Praça Mauá" (Mauá square), at the Navy Cultural center.

The first one is called "Passeio Marítimo pela Baía de Guanabara" (Guanabara Bay sea trip). It takes about 1 hour in a comfortable boat. It costs about 30 reais. From Thursday to Sunday.

View of the bay, from the boat.

The other one is to "Ilha Fiscal" (Fiscal Island). This is shorter and less expensive. But also very interesting.

Rio de Janeiro seen from Ilha Fiscal

Links to our videos: (not subtitled yet)

https://youtu.be/i3He4eGms5g - Guanabara Bay

https://youtu.be/pLPpf8KU_tM - Fiscal Island

4) Famous all over the world and you can't miss: The Botanical Garden

Easy to go, because it's in "Zona Sul", where tourists usually stay. Next to the Jockey Club and Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. In case you prefer, a taxi shouldn't be so expensive.

A perfect place for a nice stroll and relax, it's more than just "seeing plants". It's just nice and beautiful! Usually small monkeys can be seen, as well as squirrels and birds.

There's an entrance fee (not so cheap) and also a snack bar (near the children's park). There's also a souvenir shop at the entrance.

In the Japanese part of the Botanical Garden, a contrast of the the lotus flowers. First in winter; second, in spring.

SUBTITLED VIDEO : https://youtu.be/pQOsHXNJxtI

5) Near the Botanical Garden and free: Parque Lage (Lage park)

Once it belonged to a family and the original house is still there. (now an Art school ). A nice place for a stroll as well, and also to watch the fauna - monkeys can be seen easily.

The trail do Corcovado starts there, (but it's never advisible to go alone because unfortunately you may be robbed at the trail).

There's a nice cafe in the park, not so cheap, but very interesting. On weekends, it gets crowded, so you should arrive early.

A "macaco prego" (nail monkey) calmly eats bamboo sprouts...

One of the caves in the park

6) If you don't have time to visit the Northeast of Brazil, then you should visit the "Northeastern Traditions Fair" (or simply "São Cristóvão fair")

A piece of the Northeast in Rio de Janeiro, this fair is in São Cristõvão, in Zona Norte. A little bit far from where tourists usually stay, but worth a visit. I suggest you take a taxi, which, to be frank, will not be so cheap. There are taxis available to come back to your hotel, too.

You will find good places to try Northeastern food (I suggest "Baião de dois", which is not expensive and easy to be found. In this dish you have meat, "farofa", beans, cassava and sauce). Is also easy to find coconut sweets, "rapadura" (a sweet made of sugar cane) and things to drink, like cachaça and so.

The fair is also well known as a place to dance and listen to "forró" (a wonderful hot rhythm, we love it!) and as a place to listen to the "repentistas" (usually men, who improvise verses and recite them) and "cordelistas" (people who write "Cordel" literature, which tells short stories based on typical legends).

In case you like "karaoke", then it's the best place we know in Rio for that!

The fair is noisy, spontaneous and popular. It's not dangerous at all (there's security) and the entrance fee is cheap. On weekends it gets very crowded, specially in winter months, when you can watch the "quadrilhas", typical dances of this part of the year devoted to Saints Anthony, John and Peter (these are called "junina" parties).

The fair opens from afternoon on. But the best things happen at night!

At the entrance, there's a statue of "Luiz Gonzaga", a singer who's considered the king of "baião" (a kind of rhythm from the Northeast).

SUBTITLED VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdRNdeCd3nU

7) Another fair: I'm sure when you hear the name "Lapa" it rings a bell. You probably think of night clubs and restaurants. Ok, all of them are there!

But did you know that there's a very stylish fair in Lapa? You can find antiques, arts and craft of very good quality and fashionable itens.

It happens every first Saturday of every month, and starts in the morning.

Oh, did I tell you that you can eat traditional "feijoada" there, too? And what about Brazilian music, like "samba" and "forró"?

Check it out here: https://youtu.be/G2CUUokV5q4 SUBTITLED in English

Antiques for sale

8) Morro da Urca trail:

Sure you've heard about Sugarloaf. But the thing is: when you take the cable car to get there, your first stop is not Sugarloaf itself, but a hill called "Morro da Urca". It's a cool place, with beautiful views and snack bars. We usually go there once a month. But we go on the trail. If you're a little bit more adventurous, the trail is a good option. It's not difficult for people used to this kind of exercise, although a bit tiring for people who are not, but even kids can do it.

Tips:

It starts near the cable car station, in Praia Vermelha. (Red beach). There is a place on the left called 'pista Claudio Coutinho" (the name honours a famous sportsman). It's a place where people usually go running or walking and appreciating the view.
After about 200 meters from the beginning of this track, the trail to Morro da Urca starts. There's a sign indicating it.
It takes about 40 minutos to go up (or less), and it's safe and easy.
When you get to the hill, (Morro da Urca), you can buy the ticket to get to Sugarloaf.
ENJOY

We have a video with details, ( it's not been subtitled yet, but it may be of help anyway)

PRAIA VERMELHA ("red beach")

The sign indicating the beginning of the trail, in "Pista Claudio Coutinho)

The trail

A view from "Morro da Urca"

Sugar Loaf from Morro da Urca

Link to our video: https://youtu.be/3t8jZ7YeITI

10) Again in Zona Norte - Quinta da Boa Vista

It's a park of great Historical value in São Cristóvão, North Zone of Rio. The royal family used to live there between 1822 and 1889. Nowadays there is a Museum of Anthropology and the Zoo.

In my opinion, as it's not situated in "Zona Sul", it doesn't get as much attention by the governments we've had lately as it should, given its importance.However, it's still a lovely place!

I myself enjoy a lot going running there because it's a varied place, where you have short hills, and different kinds of tracks, like grass, asphalt, etc..so it's good to train.

Getting there is not difficult, as there are both a subway and a train station in right in front. You should get off at São Cristóvão station.

The main entrance. This path takes you to the palace below

11) Cultural Corridors:

Normally downtown Rio, and we'll be talking about some of them.

The first one is around Praça XV de Novembro (15th november square) and 1º de Março (1st March) street. There you can find: Paço Imperial (cultural center with bistrô); Ferryboat stations (which takes you to Niterói or Paquetá island); CCBB (Cultural center of Banco do Brazil - expositions, café, cinema, theater, bookstore) Casa França Brasil (cultural center - expositions); Centro Cultural da Marinha (Navy Cultural Center, where you take the boats to visit Guanabara Bay).
Link to Cultural Corridor 1 (narrated in English) : https://youtu.be/l0MPP5ogJ1E

Inside CCBB

Mestre Valentim fountain, Praça XV

An exposition in Paço Imperial

Museum of Tomorrow - our video: https://youtu.be/KAH-H_XkXWk

Cultural Corridor 2: Cinelândia and Largo da Carioca: The Most important place there is perhaps the Municipal Theater, built in the beginning of the twentieth century. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful and important theatres in the country.The building is designed in an eclectic style, inspired by the Paris Opéra of Charles Garnier. The outside walls are inscribed with the names of classic Eurocentric & Brazilian artists. It is located near the National Library and the National Fine Arts Museum, overlooking the spacious Cinelândia Square. We consider the theater to be a place of great glamour! However, perhaps because it was built so long ago, the seats are not so comfortable. We suggest you buy your tickets for a section called "balcão nobre". It's the best (in our opinion) although not so cheap...
In this Cultural Corridor you can also find: CAIXA Cultural Center, Odeon Cinema, Saint Anthony Convent and Church. The VLT (light rail) passes there,too.

Municipal Theater

segunda-feira, 10 de julho de 2017

Come to Rio!

Hope you have fun!

A question people usually ask:

How dangerous is Rio?

If you're talking about the capital city "The" Rio de Janeiro, we have to say, unfortunately it is dangerous! (our authorities have been doing nearly nothing to deal with this violence)

However, that doesn't mean we stay home all the time. We watch our belongings, take extra care in some places (to be frank, almost everywhere!) and totally avoid some others.

There are some apps, like OTT (it means "where there's a gunshot" ) which inform you of places where there's a gunshot going on.

But don't get neurotic, please. We've lived here all our lives and have survived...

One thing I think is good to do is to get informed by reliable people around you: at the hotel or with friends.

Now, when we talk about places around Rio, then things change a lot. Usually the places we're going to be talking about here are far less dangerous than the capital city.

In a "cariocalike" way...

Some tips about cariocas:

Most of us are not usually very punctual, specially when it comes to parties and other kinds of social interactions. We'll be punctual only in a professional way (for ex. a tour guide will be "somewhat" punctual...)
You can ride buses in Rio. Although there will be cases of thefts, I can tell you: I've riden buses around here for over 50 years on a daily basis, and I've NEVER been robbed on a bus! For the most famous places, the driver himself will help you with guidance. The bus is nowadays the cheapest transport in Rio.(it's cheaper than the train, mind you).
You can also ride taxis and Uber, too. There are apps you can download. I suggest you prefer professional drivers to renting a car, for if you don't know the way very well you may enter a community (favela) by mistake, which is really a very dangerous thing to do!
Carioca summers can be VERY hot! And summer here lasts from the middle of October to the middle of next April. But there will be some cold days in the betweens...so bring a coat.
Carioca restaurant bills include a 10% tip for the waiter. I suggest you don't complain about it.
Carioca people, although we've been having a hard time lately due to the bad behaviour of some politicians, is still friendly and helpful.
But watch your belongings, all the time! (don't get neurotic, just watch)